A Guide to the Haida Watchmen Sites of Gwaii Haanas

For many people who paddle Gwaii Haanas, meeting the Haida Gwaii Watchmen is the most memorable part of the trip. The Watchmen welcome visitors to five ancient Haida village sites, sharing stories, history and a living connection to the Haida Nation.

Who Are the Haida Gwaii Watchmen?

The program takes its name and symbol from the three watchmen figures often carved at the top of Haida poles. In the past, watchmen were posted around a village to warn of approaching danger.
The modern program began in the early 1980s, when Haida volunteers camped at the village sites to protect them from looters who were taking artifacts. Today it is managed by the Council of the Haida Nation with support from Parks Canada. Watchmen live at the sites from spring to fall, caring for the villages and teaching visitors about Haida heritage.

The Five Watchmen Sites

K’uuna Llnagaay (Skedans)

K’uuna Llnagaay sits on the northeast corner of Louise Island, the most northerly of the Watchmen sites. At its peak the village had 26 to 30 longhouses, and in the late 1800s more than 50 monumental carvings were recorded here.
Today a few carved memorial and mortuary poles still stand, weathered silver by more than a century of rain and wind. The deep depressions of several longhouses show just how large these family homes once were. K’uuna lies just outside the national park reserve, within the Haida Heritage Site.

T’aanuu Llnagaay (Tanu)

 
T’aanuu Llnagaay translates to Eelgrass Town, after the eelgrass beds found nearby. Set on the eastern side of Tanu Island, the village once had 25 to 40 longhouses.
Little is left standing today. Instead, you'll walk among moss-covered house pits and fallen beams as the forest slowly reclaims them. The Haida built their longhouses with huge posts and beams over deep, tiered pits, and even now the scale is striking. Like K’uuna, T’aanuu lies within the Haida Heritage Site, just outside the park reserve.

Hlk’yah GawGa (Windy Bay)

 
Hlk’yah GawGa holds a central place in modern Haida history. In 1985, the Haida Nation took a stand on the logging road at Sedgwick Bay on Lyell Island to stop logging. Windy Bay was one of the protest sites, and the longhouse known as Looking Around and Blinking House was built as part of that effort. The stand ultimately led to the protection of Gwaii Haanas as an area managed cooperatively by the Haida Nation and Canada.
In August 2013, Haida citizens, visitors, volunteers and Parks Canada staff raised the Legacy Pole here. It was the first monumental pole raised in Gwaii Haanas in 130 years, and it honours 20 years of cooperative management. Hlk’yah GawGa is also the only Watchmen site where camping is allowed, for one night.

Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay (Hotspring Island)

 
Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay takes its name from its hot springs. The island has long been known as a place of abundant food and waters that comfort, heal and nourish body and soul.
Visitors can still enjoy the springs today. The heat from the thermal system warms the thin soils and keeps the forest at bay, giving parts of the island an open, unusual landscape unlike anywhere else in Gwaii Haanas.

SGang Gwaay Llnagaay (Anthony Island)

 
SGang Gwaay lies on the exposed southwest edge of Gwaii Haanas, with the village tucked into a sheltered bay on the island's east side. Here you'll find upright and fallen poles, house pits, and the standing posts and beams of longhouses. It is considered one of the best examples in the world of a traditional Northwest Coast First Nations village, and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Historic Site in 1981.

The island is also a globally significant seabird nesting area. Most species nest in burrows underground, so staying on the boardwalk protects both the village and the birds. Reaching SGang Gwaay takes a longer journey to the remote south of the park, which makes arriving here all the more memorable.

How to Choose Which Watchmen Site to Visit

Few kayak trips reach all five sites, because they stretch across more than 100 kilometres of coastline. The best choice depends on what you most want to see and how far south your trip goes.

Choose by What Matters Most to You

• To see standing poles: Choose Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay for a shorter trip (Moresby Explorers, Haida Styles do Zodiac day trips), or SG̱ang Gwaay Llnagaay for the most complete village.
• For history you can connect to today: Hlk’yah G̱awG̱a tells the story of how Gwaii Haanas came to be protected. There is also one of the largest Spruce trees that adds to the story.
• For quiet, atmosphere and many Long Houses: T’aanuu Llnagaay, where the forest is slowly reclaiming the village. This is a very large village site.
• For rest and a soak: G̱andll K’in Gwaay.yaay. Pack a swimsuit and a quick-dry towel.
• If you only have six days: A northern route can include four sites: Ḵ’uuna, T’aanuu, Hlk’yah G̱awG̱a and G̱andll K’in Gwaay.yaay.

Weather decides every route in Gwaii Haanas, so no visit is ever guaranteed. SG̱ang Gwaay in particular sits on an exposed coast, and guides may need to wait for a safe window.

A Note on the Names

We use the Haida names first because these are the places' true names, with the English names in brackets. SG̱ang Gwaay is often translated as "Wailing Island," after the sound the wind makes through a hole in the rocks at certain tides. It has also been recorded as "Red Cod Island." Your Watchmen hosts are the best people to ask about a name's meaning and how to say it.

Visiting With Respect

These are not ruins or museum pieces. They are the homes and resting places of Haida ancestors, and they remain part of a living culture. A few simple practices go a long way:

• Visitors radio the Watchmen ahead and ask permission before coming ashore. Your guides take care of this for you.
• No more than 12 people are ashore at a time, and access is first come, first served.
• Stay on the trails. Poles and longhouse remains are fragile and easily damaged, so never touch them, and leave everything as you found it.
• Visits end by 6 pm, because the Watchmen are on call seven days a week and need time to themselves.
• Alcohol and cannabis aren't allowed at the sites.
• Ask before photographing people, their homes or the sites.
• Listen, ask questions and take your time. The stories are the heart of the visit.

Cultural sites aren't limited to the villages. They can also be found on beaches, in the intertidal zone and in the forest, so treat every landing place with care. Before your trip, we encourage every guest to sign the Haida Gwaii Pledge.

When to Visit, and How to Get There

Watchmen are posted at the sites from spring to fall, so plan your trip for the summer season. For help choosing your dates, read When Is the Best Time to Kayak Haida Gwaii?

The sites are reached only by water, and a sea kayak is one of the most rewarding ways to arrive. Our 6-Day Haida Watchmen tour is built around visits to T’aanuu, Hlk’yah GawGa, K’uuna and Gandll K’in Gwaay.yaay. To stand among the poles at SGang Gwaay, join our 8-Day Southern Gwaii Haanas or 8-Day Southern Waters SGang Gwaay expedition .
With just 6 guests and 2 guides, our small groups mean more time and more personal conversations with the Watchmen at each site.